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COPIfRICHT UEPOSir. 



HOW TO MAKE 



WAX FLOWERS. 



INSTRUCTIONS BY 



i 

ELEANOR LEVER 



Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1886, in the office of 
the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 



BY MAIL, - ■ 75 CENTS. - 3/. 



HOW TO MAKE 



WAX FLOWERS. 



INSTRUCTIONS BY 

/ 

ELEANOR LEVER. 






Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1886, in the office of 
the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 

„ JAN 7 ISS/.y 

BY MAIL, - 75 CENTS. - 3/. 



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INDEX. 



INSTPUCTIONS FOE MAKING WaX FlOWEES, 



PAGE. 

Preliminary Eemarks, ------- 5 

Study of the Natural Flower, . - . . . 6 

Patterns, --------- 7 

To Cut up the Wax, -------- 7 

To Color the Petals, ------- 8 

To Mould the Petals, ------. 9 

Moulding as a Kuffle, ....... 10 

To Prepare the Stem, ..--.- 10 

To Form the Foundation, - - - - - - 11 

Stamens, -------- 11 

The Calla Lily, - - - - - - - - 11 

Lily of the Valley, - - - - - - - 11, 23 

The Rose, - 12 

The Rose, Construction of, - - - - - - 13 

The Forget-Me-Not, ------- 14 

The Violet, -------- 15 

The Camellia, -------- 16 

The Carnation, - - - - - - - 17 

The Calyx, 18 

The Calyx, How to Make, ------ 18 

The Seed Cup, 19 

Green Leaves or Foliage, ------ 19 

Green Leaves, How to Make, - - - - - - 19 

General Suggestions, ------ 20 

Fancy Designs for Wax Flowers, - - - - - 21 

Fancy Designs, The Horse Shoe Stand, - - - - 21 

Fancy Articles, - - - - - - - 22 

Autumn Leaves, ----- - - 23 

Price List, . . - - - - _ 23 

Tints and Colors, ------ ^ 24 

Postal Address, ------ 24 



INSTRUCTIONS 



FOR 



MAKING WAX FLOWERS 



PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 

Many ladies who would like to learn this beautiful art feel a 
lack of confidence in themselves, especially those who have 
never had experience in artistic work, but by adhering to the 
following plain and simple instructions (which I have endeav- 
ored to write consecutively and in order, as the different parts 
of the flower require preparing separately before being placed 
together, such as the wires for stems, the stamens, petals, calyx 
and seed cups), any lady, with a little careful study at first, may 
prove that she can make wax flowers successfully, and will in- 
variably be surprised at the simplicity of the work and the ra- 
pidity of its execution. 

The taste of the modeller will find scope enough in choosing 
the most effective flowers to study from, selecting at first one 
of simple construction and coloring, and advancing by degrees 
to the more complicated. 

It is not possible to add to the grace or beauty of any of Na- 
ture's works, but remember to imitate as faithfully as possible, 
and thus deserve and achieve success. 



6 * INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING WAX FLOWERS. 

As an accomplishment it is delicate, artistic and beautiful; 
helps to refine the taste and educate the eye for color. When 
proficient in this art an unlimited variety of designs will sug- 
gest themselves to the worker, not simply placing the flowers 
in a stand under a glass shade, but tastefully arranging them 
in many other ways. A few suggestions for this will be given 
further on. 

Nothing can be more lovely than floral designs for home dec- 
oration or as gifts to*friends, who would highly value the handi- 
work of the giver, and ladies of limited means will find it a 
source of increasing their income in a very substantial manner. 

STUDY OF THE NATURAL FLOWER. 

It is advisable to obtain two simply formed natural flowers, 
both as much alike as possible. 

Take one of them apart. Should the petals be very firmly 
fixed they must be cut from the base with a sharp penknife. 

Note carefully each feature of the different parts of the flower, 
recording in a small note-book the number of petals, their color 
and gradation of shades; the texture of the parts, if they be thick 
or thin; count the stamens, and note their color and formation, 
recording character of shade or tone, commencing at the top ; 
observe the formation of the corolla, calyx and seed cup; the 
stem, if thick or thio, stiff or flexible; the leaves, color of up- 
per and lower sides and general appearance. Pansies, sweet 
peas, etc., being single flowers, it is necessary to have the same 
number of petals as the natural one, but in double flowers, like 
the rose, carnation, etc., it is not needful to count the petals. 

In preparing the petals of the double flowers, the rose or 



msTRncTioNs for making wax flowers. 7 

carnation, for instance, pick out (after the petals of the natural 
flower have all been stripped off) four leaves or petals of differ- 
ent sizes, one of the smallest, one of the largest and the remain- 
ing two leaves of intermediate sizes between the two others 
(largest and smallest), so as to secure a range of sizes from the 
smallest to the largest size. The object sought to be obtained 
by selecting these four different sized petals of the rose is that 
paper patterns of perfectly natural shaped petals may be ob- 
tained. 

Instructions for cutting out these paper patterns are given in 
the following chapter: 

PATTERNS. 

To obtain the accurate size and shape of the petals, place 
each of the leaves selected upon a piece of thick note paper, and 
carefully draw the outline. Use a sharp lead-pencil, and cut 
out the pattern accurately with a pair of scissors. 

TO CUT UP THE WAX. 

In cutting up the wax for petals, use a small pair of scissors, 
first moistening them in the mouth, or, if preferable, dip them 
in cold water, to prevent the scissors sticking to the wax. 
Observe that any attempt to use the wax in a hard state will 
only end in failure. As a rule the warmth of the hand is suffi- 
cient to make the wax pliable enough to cut without breaking, 
but in cold weather it is best to use a small lamp, holding the 
sheet of wax about 6 inches higher than the top of the glass 
chimney, passing the wax to and fro, so as to soften slightly all 
the sheet. 



8 INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAllING ^AX FLOWERS. 

The wax is so thorougbly adhesive as only to require warmth 
and pressure to make the petals and other parts of a flower 
adhere together, but care must be taken that no foreign sub- 
stance, such as the powdered color or moisture, touches 
the parts about to be united, as that would prevent its doing so 
permanently, and cause disappointment. Use only the best wax, 
as good wax will stand the heat of the East and West Indies as 
well as cold climates. 

Wax of proper thickness must be used, according to the sub- 
stance of the petal of the flower to be made. 

To cut two petals at once, fold the wax double, or place two 
sheets together, first wetting the wax between the sheets placed 
together; otherwise, much difficulty will be met with in separat- 
ing the two petals after being cut. 



TO COLOR THE PETALS. 

Place the petals on a sheet of white paper on the table. 
Have ready the box of color of the required shade. 

Hold the petal by the left thumb and forefinger, the petal 
resting on the sheet of paper. Dip one of the fingers of the 
right hand in the box of color, and gently and evenly rub the 
color on both sides. A great deal could be written on the color- 
ing of different flowers, but the same principle is to be observed 
in all, the mechanical process being the same. 

No exact rule can be given, except in applying the shades of 
color, as in the tea rose for instance. In this case, the deeper 
sh;ide is acquired by sprinkling a few grains of color on the 
centre of each petal on both sides, using (in case the yellow tea 
rose is being colored) a few grains of safrano color. This 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING WAX FLOWERS. 9 

shade, to be successful, requires care and discretion, or the re- 
sult may be that the petal has a cloudy or dauby appearance. 
Eub the shade color gently at first, round and round the centre 
of the petal, until it is evenly diffused, and leaves the top of the 
petal a paler shade, and the desired end is obtained. 

TO MOULD THE PETALS. 

In order to convert the petals into the required shape, and 
ready to place upon the stem, proceed as follows: 

Take one petal and place it in the palm of the left hand, the 
narrow end pointing towards the fingers, first warming it by 
holding it for a second over the chimney of a small common 
lamp. Then take the large moulding-pin in the right hand, 
holding it during the act of moulding as you would a knife 
at table. This comparison expresses more concisely my mean- 
ing than any other I can make. 

Let the head of the moulding-pin project an inch beyond the 
right hand forefinger. 

Wet the head of the pin slightly (unless the petal is colored, 
when the color prevents its sticking), and commence to mould 
the petal by slow and even pressure, regulating the weight of 
the pressure to avoid tearing the wax. Moistening the head of 
the pin slightly, prevents its sticking, and, after revolving the 
head several times around the extreme edge of the petal, do the 
same in the centre with a little stronger pressure. By this 
means the petal can be shaped as desired, as the wax becomes 
warmed by the heat of the hand, and the increased pressure of 
the large head of the pin causes the petal to assume the hollow 
or concave shape, as seen in the natural rose, tuberose and simi- 
lar flowers. 



10 INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING WAX FLOWERS. 

MOULDING- AS A RUFFLE. 

To obtain a thin, ruffled, scalloped shape, such as in the 
carnation, pink etc., the moulding is slightly different to that 
required for the rose, camellia and tuberose, where the con- 
cave shape is made b}' the head of the pin. 

The scalloped part of the carnation is obtained by placing 
the round part of th^ petal on the inside of the forefinger of the 
left hand, near the nail, the pointed part of the petal pointing 
inwards towards the palm of the hand. Take the moulding-pin 
in the right hand, placing that portion of the pin about an 
inch from the point, on the petal, and roll the pin to and fro 
on one-half of the petal. Then turn over and mould the other 
half in the same manner, being careful to allow the half of the 
petal already moulded to project over one side of the finger, so 
as not to flatten out the side first moulded. 

TO PREPARE THE STEM. 

Cut from a sheet of green wax two very narrow strips of wax; 
the narrower they are the easier they will wind around the 
wire. Take a piece of thin wire, of thickness corresponding in 
strength or pliability with the stem of the flower it is desired to 
imitate, and of sufficient strength to support it uprightly. 
"Warm the wax very slightly over the lamp, and fasten one end 
of it firmly and evenly round the top of the wire. Press gently 
between the fingers and wind it spirally around the wire, 
slightly warming it to insure smoothness. 

When the wire is covered, turn down about an inch, doubling 
the wire at that point of the stem where the flower is to be 



INSTRCCTIONS FOR MAKING WAX FLOWERS. 11 

placed, closing together tightly the part bent over or doubled. 
It is then ready for the bulb or foundation of the flower. 

TO FORM THE BULB OR FOUNDATION. 

No precise instructions can be given for the making of these 
as to size, as the foundation should correspond in shape and 
size with the kind of flower it is desired to make, but the same 
principle applies in each case. Wind scraps of waste wax 
tightly around the end of the wire which has been turned down 
or doubled. Continue to add pieces, until a foundation of the 
desired shape and size is obtained. 

By observing the size and shape of the interior of any natu- 
ral flower, after pulling off the petals, a foundation of the ex- 
act size and shape can be obtained for a model to be repro- 
duced in wax. 

STAMENS. 

Where stamens form the centre of the flowers, such as single 
roses, fasten tlie stamens on the bulb or foundation, fixing 
them to appear as natural as possible, then press the base of 
the stamens firmly into the wax foundation attached to the 
stem. 

Stamens of all flowers can be purchased, and are inexpensive, 
consequently no instructions are given for the making of them. 

THE CALLA LILY AND LILY OF THE 
VALLEY. 

Both of these flowers are made on plaster and wood moulds 
with hot melted wax. 



12 INSTRUCTIONS FOR MaKINctI WAX FLOWERS. 

This wax is specially prepared for the purpose, and is sold in 
quarter pound packets. 

THE ROSE. 

This flower is marvellous in construction, and too beautiful 
and delicate to imitate precisely as in nature, but the following- 
instructions will prove the nearest approach to obtain the de- 
sired result: * 

Take two sheets of the double thick wax — by this means two 
petals can be cut at once. Moisten between the sheets, to pre- 
vent its sticking together, then lay the paper pattern on the 
wax and cut the number of petals required for the rose. 

Place the petals on a clean sheet of pajoer on the table. 

Be sure the petals are dry before applying the powdered 
color. 

Then with the left thumb and forefinger hold the petal by 
the p jinted end or base, and rub the color desired on the wax 
petal on both sides, as jjreviously described. If sufficient pow- 
dered color is not used, it gives a dauby, dingy appearance. 
Care must be taken to color both sides of the petal, and to pre- 
vent any of the color getting on the base or bottom of the petal, 
as that will prevent its adhering to the stem. When the petals 
are all colored, begin to mould the smallest sizes, first placing 
them in the palm of the left hand, with the pointed end to- 
wards the fingers. Take in the right hand the moulding-pin 
with the largest head, and mould as described under the head 
of " Moulding," commencing on the outside or edge of the leaf, 
with gentle and even pressure. Mould well into the centre 
and endeavor to give the hollow concave shape before proceed- 
in"' to curl the edo-es. 



IN8TEUCTI0NS FOR MAKING WAX FLOWERS. 13 

Much of the beauty of the flower depends upon the petals be- 
ing well moulded after coloring. 

No moisture must be used, as the powdered color on the 
petal is sufficient to prevent its sticking to the moulding-pin. 
To curl the upper portion of the petal place the leaf on the fore- 
finger of the left hand, and with the steel part of the pin pro- 
ceed to curl the leaf, as in the natural one. A little practice 
will soon insure success. 



CONSTRUCTION OF THE ROSE. 

Cover a wire of suitable strength with green wax, as previ- 
ously described. Turn down half an inch of the wire, on which 
the bulb or centre of the rose has to be fixed, and form the 
bulb by wrapping scraps of waste wax around the bent end 
of the wire until the desired size is obtained. The flower will 
not be formed successfully unless the foundation or bulb is made 
correct in size and shape. Hold the stem on which the bulb is 
fixed between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, the 
bulb being upwards. 

If a natural Rose can be obtained, place it before you on the 
table and endeavor to imitate it as closely as possible when fix- 
ing the petals. Take one of the smallest petals in the right 
hand, holding the pointed end of the petal over the lamp for a 
second to soften it, then place it on the bulb, pressing the lower 
part tightly, so as to cause it to adhere firmly, and press the 
first leaf so closely round as to cover the bulb, then place on a 
second petal, not quite so close at the top, but tight at the base, 
turn the flower around and add another petal, and continue 
the process until the largest are fixed on the outside. 



14 INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING WAX FLOWERS. 

As additional petals are added, they must of course be fixed 
so that the upper portion of the petal stands further out from 
the centre, as in a partly opened flower. Examine the natural 
flower from time to time as the fixing of the ]3etals proceeds, 
and use only sufficient petals to make a natural sized flower, 
using the different sizes at discretion, as one wax petal is al- 
most equal in bulk to three natural petals. All the petals must 
be placed with the 'Upper or curled parts of the same height, 
each petal overlapping the last. 

The rose is now ready for the green calyx and seed cup, 
which are fully described previously. Should the flower when 
»complete appear stiff and unnatural, remove the petals care- 
fully and replace them, as you may not have commenced right. 
Avoid having flowers such as roses too full blown; the cup 
like and opening bud appearance are far preferable. 

There are a few flowers, such as the tea and marschal niel 
rose, which are rather difficult to imitate, but success can be 
insured by perseverance and a little taste. 

To put a nice bloom on the rose, use a little arrowroot, pow- 
dered very fine. 



THE FORGET-ME-NOT. 

A small tool, like a paste cutter, and made of tin, is used for 
cutting out this flower. 

The least complicated way to commence making this flower 
is to color a sheet of wax with turquoise blue. Wet the cut- 
ter to prevent its sticking. Place the wax on a piece of thick 
glass. Press the cutter on the wax; if the flower should hap- 
pen to stick in the cutter, push it out with the head of the 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING WAX FLOWERS. 15 

smallest moulding-pin. Use the finest wire, neatly covered 
with light green wax. 

KoU a very small piece of pale yellow wax on the extreme 
point, to form a tiny bulb, allowing a little of the yellow wax to 
project beyond the wire. Take a blunt steel knitting needle, 
wet the blunt point and pick up the forget-me-not on the end of 
the needle and place it on the small yellow bulb at the point of 
the stem, pressing it firmly with the blunt point of the needle, 
to make it adhere firmly to the yellow bulb and assume the 
natural shape. 

Five or seven flowers with a few buds will be sufficient to 
group together. Though rather tedious to make, this flower 
will well repay the modeller for the time bestowed on it, and 
will be a 2:ood introduction to other small intricate flowers. 



THE VIOLET. 

The violet is a very simple little flower to make, and 
is invaluable in arranging a boquet or stand of flowers. It can 
be cut from waste scraps of white wax, and requires from nine to 
twelve petals, the first three (used in the centre) being a little 
less than the others. 

When a sufficient number of petals are cut out, place them on 
the table, rub the violet color on both sides, taking care not to 
allow the powder to touch the base, as that would prevent the 
petal adhering as firmly to the bulb as when not colored. 
Mould each petal slightly with the point of the moulding-pin, by 
placing it on the forefinger of the left hand. Mould half the 
petal, or one side of the petal, then turn it over and mould the 
other half, giving the petal a twisted appearance. 



16 INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING WAX FLOWERS. 

Use No. 1 thin wire for the stem, cover it with light green 
wax, turn half an inch down and place on the end a little waste 
wax to form a bulb. Then place on the three small petals ir- 
regularly, and the large ones in rotation of threes, and bend 
over the flower to the natural position. Color the base of the 
flower where it joins the stem with a little powdered green. 

THE CAMELLIA. 

Being a thick, petaled flower, the medium thick, white wax 
must be used. After cutting the required number of petals, place 
each one in the palm of the left hand, and with the head of the 
largest moulding-pin mould the edges of the petal well. Then 
make a dented line down the centre of each (except the 
smallest ten petals, which are to be used for the centre of the 
flower), by pressing the pin lengthwise down the centre for an 
instant. 

Use strong wire for the stem, turn down an inch, and make 
the bulb a good size (of waste wax), pointed at both ends. Now 
proceed to place on the petals, the first three to be fixed close to 
the bulb, forming a bud shape, and continue to place them in 
rows, each slightly overlapping the other, using the small sizes 
first. Then take the next largest size and place them on in sets 
of three, giving them a triangular appearance; place on the 
third sized petals in rotation, giving the round appearance as 
the flower opens. 

The right hand only should be used in placing the petals on 
the stem, the pressure required for fixing them firmly being 
given by the finger and thumb of the left hand. 

The flower is now finished as no calyx is required for the 
Camellia. 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING WAX FLOWERS. 17 



THE CARNATION. 

Cut out the required number of petals to form a natural- 
sized flower. Place the petals on the table and tint the edges 
or scalloped part with the colored powder of the shade desired, 
applying it with the forefinger of the right hand, not allowing 
the color to extend more than a quarter of an inch down the 
petal. Warm the petal slightly, and then proceed to mould 
as described under the head of " Moulding as a Ruffle." 

The great jDoint to achieve in moulding the carnation is to 
obtain the ruffled, thin, uneven appearance as in the natural 
flower, which is soon obtained by practice and perseverance. 

In placing the flower together, take the stem (on the end of 
which is fixed a small bulb) in the left hand, and with the right 
hand f)lace three petals irregularly round the bulb, having 
previously pinched a small pleat in the petal lengthwise, to give 
it a more ruffled appearance. Next add three more petals in 
between the first three and closely underneath, and continue 
to place them in rows overlapping each other. 

Pleat about ten of the petals lengthwise, and the rest plain, 
using the pleated ones for the centre part of the flower. When 
the petals are all fixed, make the base of the flower smooth, 
and place on the calyx, which must be cut from light green 
wax. The flower is then complete. It can be made in many 
colors, those most showy being lemon, cardinal, pink, yel- 
low, etc. 

Striped flowers are very fine, the striped coloring being put 
on with a sable brush after the flower is finished. Two good 
shades are lemon ground with carmine stripes, and white 
ground with pink stripes. 



IS INSTRUCTIONS rOR MAKING •WAX FLOWERS. 

THE CALYX. 

When the petals of all flowers are satisfactorily fixed, then 
put on the calyx. 

TO MAKE THE CALYX. 

For this green sheet wax of three shades is used — light, me- 
dium and dark green. The color of the calyx must, of course, 
be as near the natural one as possible. The pattern for the 
calyx may be obtained by the same means as previously de- 
scribed for roses, but if the natural flower is not available for 
the purpose of stripping off a pattern of the calyx, in order to 
cut it out in paper, then proceed as follows for the Rose: 

Take a sheet of green wax and cut off a piece one and one- 
half inches long, and one-fourth of an inch wide at one end 
and narrowing to a point at the other end. The wax will 
then be a long V-shaped piece. Hold the broad end of the 
piece in the left hand, and with a sharp pair of scissors make 
small cuts along each edge of the wax from the broad end 
almost to the point. These small cuts will produce the serrated 
edge seen in the natural rose calyx. By observing the shape 
and character of the calyx of any natural flower, and making a 
paper pattern as described for roses, any shape of calyx can be 
obtained. 

Warm the widest end of the calyx over the lamp, and place 
it at the lower portion of the flower, pressing it close to the 
stem. When the required number of the calyx leaves are 
fixed, the pointed ends ought to be equi-distant from each 
other around the flower. Care should be taken in fixing these, 



INSTRUCIIONS toil MAKINO WAX FLOWERS. 19 

as the judicious arrangement of the calyx leaves contributes 
much to give a natural finish to the flower. 



THE SEED CUP. 

Seed cups are sold read}^ for fixing on the stems, and are so 
cheap that it is preferable to purchase than to make them. 

Seed cups can be made, however, with waste green wax, 
moulding it into a round ball of the size required for the seed 
cup, and cutting it into t^'o parts. 

This makes two seed cups. The hollow inside the cup can 
then be made with the head of a moulding-pin, and the hole 
through the centre by inserting the pin through the bottom of 
the cup, until the hole is sufficiently large for the wax covered 
stem to pass through. 

The seed cups are fixed by simply warming the bottom or 
base of the flower, passing the wax-covered wire through the 
seed cup and pressing it close up to the base of the flower. 

GREEN FOLIAGE. 

Green leaves made of wax are not in such great variety, as 
they are too heav}^ to be used so freely as in the case of natural 
foliage. Various kinds of green leaves are made on small brass 
moulds, a list of kinds and prices will be sent on application. 

TO MAKE GREEN LEAVES. 

The darkest shades of green sheet wax make the handsomest 
leaves for general use, but the medium and light green shades 
are also used for variety. 



20 rNSTRTJCTIONS FOR MAKING mAX FLOWERS. 

Take a piece of wax covered wire, then two sheets of green 
wax, of sufficient size to cover the surface of the brass leaf mould ; 
leave a little to project over the edges. Place the end of the 
wire between the two pieces of wax, and press the wax and wire 
together, having the wire about the centre of the leaf. Thor- 
oughly wet the brass leaf mould, on the side showing the veins 
of the leaf most distinctly, and place the two pieces of wax (in 
the centre of which is fixed the wire stem) on the wetted sur- 
face of the mould, ts^ing care the wire stem is placed down the 
centre of the leaf. Warm the wax slightly and press the wax 
and mould firmly together, working the wax into the mould, so 
that the raised veins may be strongly indented. 

Avoid much pressure upon the wire stem, otherwise it will 
cut through the wax. 

Press firmly around the brass leaf, which acts as a knife, and 
tear off all the margin. 

Upon separating the brass mould from the completed leaf it 
will be noticed that the serrated edges of the wax are produced 
as in the brass pattern mould, and the beautiful veining of the 
leaf is imprinted upon the wax. 



GENERAL SUG-G-ESTIONS. 

To ladies practicing wax flower making from these instruc- 
tions, and desiring further information, we shall be happy to 
reply fully to any question asked. 

Paper patterns (accurately copied from nature) of any flower 
will be supplied by mail at 8 cents (4c^). 

Further and more detailed descriptions for cutting, coloring, 
moulding, and making up any flower particularly specified, 20 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING WAX FLOWERS. 21 

cents {lOd), which will enable any lady to pursue this beautiful 
art successfully, either for pleasure or profit. 

FANCY DESIGNS FOR WAX FLOWERS- 

The following description of a few designs are easily and 
readily prepared, and when tastefully decorated with flowers, 
leaves and vines, are exceedingly novel and attractive for 
home decoration, and are much sought after at fairs and ba- 
zaars. 

The constiniction of these articles has, in many cases, proved 
a great source of amusement and pleasure to invalids, as the 
work is of a cleanly nature, purely mechanical, and requires 
little exertion. Amongst the newest and perhaps most taking 
design which I will describe as accurately as possible, is 

THE HORSE-SHOE STAND. 

Take two pieces of firm, strong wdre, bend them to the 
shape of a horse-shoe, large or smaU, as desired, j^lacing the 
wires one inch apart, to imitate the outside and inside edges 
of a horse-shoe. A piece of the same kind of wire must then 
be fixed at the back to suj^port the horse-shoe, and insure its 
standing firmly in a slanting position, similar to a picture on 
an easel. Cover the wire with narrow strips of green wax, in 
the manner described for covering wires for flow^er stems, 
making it neat at the back. When the wire stand is complete 
proceed to place the flowers and foliage around, using taste 
and discretion; different shades of small roses, forget-me-not, 
lily of the valley, sweet peas, violet, carnations, etc., are among 



22 INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING WAX FLOWERS. 

• 

the most suitable. Leave sufficient space in tlie centre for a 
pliotograpli. 

The horse-shoe stand is usually placed under a glass shade, 
but can be mounted on plush, and either hung against a wall 
or constructed to stand on a mantelpiece, and in winter, when 
there is a dearth of flowers, it can be used for the decoration 
of the dining table. Two horse- shoe stands, decorated with 
colored flowers and placed back to back, form an exceedingly 
handsome ornament at dinner parties. Decorating the stands 
with colored flowers does not necessitate a glass shade being 
used, as colored flowers do not show dust so much as white 
ones, and any dust which may fall upon them whilst uncov- 
ered can be blown off with a light feather duster. 

Fancy articles, such as plush panels, plaques, picture frames, 
etc., may be ornamented prettily with wax flowers,autumn leaves, 
vine-ivy, and other suitable decorations. A cluster of Pale 
Yellow Roses, with the foliage arranged in a careless but taste- 
ful manner, at the corner of a plush frame, forms a very pretty 
present for a birthday or for wedding congratulations. The 
great thing to be observed is that the flowers and leaves se- 
lected will harmonize in size and color with the article to be 
ornamented. Avoid using full blown roses, unless for a very 
large stand under glass, as the wax necessary to form a full- 
blown flower makes it so heavy. The bud shape or partly ex- 
panded flower is easily used and is more effective in every 
case. 

At church fairs and bazaars small bouquets, consisting of 
two rosebuds with their leaves, are readily purchased, either 
for gentlemen's buttonholes, for ladies' dresses, or for very 
small vases. Another pretty design is formed of dwarf oak 
leaves and acorns, to twine around picture frames, crosses, or 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING WAX FLOWERS, 23 

any other framed article. White crosses are prettily orna- 
mented with white ivy leaves, sprinkled with diamond dust or 
frosting, which can be supplied by mail. White camellias and 
calla lilies are frequently used for church decoration. 

AUTUMN LEAVES. 

For autumn leaves a double thickness of wax is used. This 
can be procured in variegated carmine, greens and other shades. 

Yellow wax can be used, and tinted to shades required to 
match the leaves desired to be copied. Autumn leaves are ex- 
c< ediugly simple to make, very few tools being required, and 
they are, when made in a variety of colors, most effective, and 
can be used in many ways, such as decorating crosses, vases or 
panels, either alone or in combination wath trailing vines, smi- 
lax or flowers. They need not be covered over with glass, as 
a feather broom, lightly applied, is sufficient to remove any 
dust which may alight upon them. 

LILY OF THE VALLEY. 

A tool for making lily of the valley without the labor of 
cutting and moulding the flower, can be supplied. Price, 20 
cents (10<^). 

PRICE LIST. 

A general price list will be found at the end of this book of 
all articles necessary for the making of wax flowers success- 
fully. Any article ordered will be forwarded promptly by mail 
or express, on receipt of price and return postage. 



24 INbTEUCTIONS FOR MAKING WAX FLOWERS. 

TINTS AND COLORS. 

Crimson carmine, such as seen in roses, verbenas, etc. 
This shade is altered by the addition of violet, or if, on the 
contrary, a scarlet shade is required, use a little vermilion. 

Lighter shades can be produced by adding a little flake white 
or arrowroot, finely powdered. 

Turquoise color, for forget-me-not and similar shades of 
blue, use Cobalt bine and flake white. 

Rose pink, use either rose madder or carmine and flake 
white, adding a very little light blue. 

Dark purple, use carmine and blue, or purple lake. 

Green, use yellow and Prussian blue. 

Lemon yellow, use light yellow and white. 

Salmon, use orange, white and carmine. 

Transparent white, use flake white and arrowroot (dry only). 

Velvet purple. When this color is needed, use only the 
genuine violet carmine, which is costly, but the extra expense 
is well repaid by the results of its use. 

POSTAL ADDRESS. 



vlRS. LEVER, 310 TOMPKlNb AVI 



PRICE LIST OF ARTICLES. 



WHITE WAX.— Double thick, - - - per gross sheets, $ 
Single "--.-"*' 
" " For Pond Lilies, ex. thick, 7|x4| in " " 

" " For Calla Lilies, " 

GEEEN^ WAX. —All Shades, - - - - .' .^ 

YELLOW WAX.— All Shades, ---."" 
VAEIEGATED WAX.— For Autumn Leaves, 

" " For Green Shades, - " " 

" *' For Carmine Shades, " " 

WIEE.— For Flower and Leaf Stems, not wax cov- 
ered, -----.. per bundle, 

" Cotton Covered, white and green, - - " " 

" Covered with White Wax, for white Ivy, &c. " " 

STEEL MOULDING-PINS.— Assorted Sizes, with 

Glass and Porce- 
lain Heads, - each, 
BEASS MOULDS.— For Leaves, all kinds and sizes, " 
WOOD MOULDS.— For Lily of the Valley, - - 
" " For the Morning Glory, or Car- 
nations, - - - - " 

PLASTEE MOULDS.— For Calla Lily, 2 sizes, - 

" " For Calla Lily Leaf, 2 sizes, " 

BEUSHES.— Bristle, Poonah and Sable, for Veining, " 

POND LILY CENTEES. ------ 

MODELLING WAX.- In ^r lb. blocks, made by an 
improved process, and 
warranted superior to 
any other offered, - - per block, 

FINE DEY COLOES.— Made expressly for coloring 
wax. Iq all colors, pre- 
pared in phials, - - per phial, 
FEOSTINGS OE DIAMOND DUST.— In various 

colors, - " 

BLOOM.— For Eoses, Violets and Leaves, - - " 



LB D '04 



